Hotei's PicksHotei's PicksGreat Tokyo day trips
- Coco Farm & Winery
Great Tokyo restaurants
- Du Vin Hachisch
Links to great Tokyo resources
- Bento (Tokyo restaurants, alphabetically,
geographically, or stylistically)
Best B&B and Small Inn Picks
in California
- Ventana Inn
- Blackthorne Inn
- Whale Watch Inn
Great Tokyo day trips: Coco Farm & Winery
Coco Farm & Winery 611 Tajima-cho Ashikaga-shi Tochigi-ken, Japan 326 Tel: 0284-42-1194
Just 70 minutes by express train (Tobu Line) from Asakusa lie the idyllic vineyards of Coco Farm & Winery. If you've never been to Coco Farm & Winery before, this is a great chance to visit. The place isn't just special because of its beautiful landscape and the graceful Napa-Valley-style veranda and tasting room. It's staffed almost entirely by mentally-handicapped adults (ages 17 to 77) who do everything from harvest grapes to bottle the wine. And every November, there's a fabulous, sprawling Harvest Festival here.
Coco's winemaker (and Hotei partner) Bruce Gutlove trained at top US enology school, U.C. Davis, and is a veteran of Mondavi, Trefethen, and Cakebread wineries in California (see the Wall Street Journal Article on Bruce on our home page). At Coco, you might be amazed to discover that wines made in Japan can be mighty delicious.
From Tokyo, take the Tobu Isesaki line bound for Akagi, which departs
from Tobu Asakusa station; Tobu Asakusa station is at the eastern terminus
of Tokyo's Ginza Subway Line. Ashikaga is the second stop on the express
route, and will take about 70 minutes from Asakusa. Shuttle buses will run
continuously from both Ashikaga JR and Ashikaga Tobu train stations to the
Fairgrounds.
Take the TOHOKU EXPRESSWAY from the northeastern side of Tokyo (most Tokyoites will make their way by the SHUTO BELTWAY to the HAKOZAKI INTERCHANGE, and there head north on the expressway that will eventually turn into the Tohoku Expressway). Continue north on the Tohoku Exp'way about 65 km to the SANO-FUJIOKA interchange (exit #7 on the northbound Tohoku).
Exit at this interchange, and proceed in the direction of Sano (bearing left once through the toll gate) on ROUTE 50. Travel about 15 minutes on Route 50 until you see a sign for ASHIKAGA/ROUTE 293/ASHIKAGA GAKKO. N.B: There will have been one or two prior exits for Ashikaga...do NOT exit Rte 50 until you see the above sign!!
Get off at the ROUTE 293 exit and make a right turn (crossing under the Expressway) at the traffic light at the bottom of the exit ramp. Take this road (Rte 293) about 2.5 km until you cross over a moderately long bridge which spans the Watarase River. As soon as you reach the other side make a left at the first corner. Then make a right at the first light on to SHOWA DORI.
Turning on to Showa-Dori you will head down a short incline to a "major" intersection (remembering that this is the country and our major intersections are smaller than those of Tokyo). This intersection is the heart of downtown Ashikaga; as a point of reference, there should be a Super Yamaguchi supermarket on your right.
Heading straight through the intersection (north on Showa-Dori) will put you in the direction of the Winery. Travel north on Showa-Dori (enjoying the view of the historic Ashikaga Gakko coming up on the left very soon) for another 2.5 km until you come to an asymmetrical 4-way intersection. At that intersection continue on a somewhat straight course (actually a slightly narrower road that veers off lazily to the right) and travel on that road for another 1.2 km or so, until you pass a Seven Eleven convenience store on your left. At the next traffic light you will find another asymmetrical 4-way intersection. Take a lazy right again and travel straight for about 1 km; the road will get quite narrow and winding, and you will just about reach the conclusion that you've gone astray-don't worry, you're still on track. After that 1 km the road will widen slightly and you will pass a "mom-and-pop" kind of grocery store on your right. Take the first right after this store, heading between some rice paddies. Take the first left-hand turn off this road and drive for just a few feet (perhaps 50 to 100 feet) until you see the sign for COCOROMI GAKUEN/COCO FARM WINERY on the right. Turn right into this private drive and proceed straight up the hill until you reach the large, two-story, white brick building on the left-that's the winery.
It should take you 90 minutes to 2 hours from Tokyo to the winery (given
a fairly light traffic load). Come on out and see us!
Great Tokyo restaurants: Du Vin Hachisch
Du Vin Hachisch 1-14-2 Nishi Azabu Minato-ku, Tokyo Tel: 03-5474-2844 Fax: 03-5474-2818
When it comes to good restaurants in Tokyo, foodies are utterly spoiled for choice. At times, it seems that the great cuisines of the world are executed with more consistency and care here than they are in their native countries. In Paris or Rome, for example, it's not terribly hard to stumble into a mediocre, uninspired place, with indifferent service. In Tokyo, on the other hand, finding a lousy meal almost requires concerted effort. With the abundance of wonderful choices here, one feels compelled to continue exploring, so the dilemma is how to stay loyal to favorite places. Nonetheless, the Hotei team finds itself irresistibly drawn back time and time again to one place in particular: Du Vin Hachisch, tucked into a sidestreet in Nishi Azabu.
Like the location, the restaurant itself is discrete. A handful of white linen-covered tables, good jazz in the background, a tranquil atmosphere, suited to a tete-a-tete. The wine list is thoughtful and extensive, from superb Bordeaux and Burgundy to a spectrum of fine New World classics (no rigid, unimaginative, France-only restrictions here). Every wine is chosen by the omnipresent chef and owner Nishimura-san, himself an ardent wine fan, who believes in making great wines accessible-- hence the excellent, ever changing line-up of wines by the glass. For wine lovers, now is a good time to visit to Du Vin Hachisch. Nishimura-san is trying to make room for new wine selections in his cellar, so he has reduced all wine prices by 10 percent, with deeper discounts on his pricier bottles. This special Wine Fair lasts until 10 October, although Chef Nishimura says he will probably extend some discounts.
But what keeps bringing us back is the food. You can't get food like this anywhere else-- because Chef Nishimura's cuisine is truly original fare. It's a brilliant combination of impeccable French technique, tempting seasonal Japanese ingredients, and a bold, but unfailingly canny imagination. For the unadventuresome, he'll graciously prepare a classic dish, but let him stir up something special, and you'll be thrilled by the results. Start off, for example, with a "spoonful of happiness," an oversized, chilled spoon, heaped with crab, sea urchin, and a delicate consomme gelée. Try his autumn salad of finely diced nashi, daikon, and sweet crabmeat, or the savory, sinful porcini and foie gras bruschetta. Another of our favorites is the meltingly tender, rich beef tongue Provencal. The day's fresh fish is cooked in any manner you wish; ask Chef Nishimura to suggest a style and sauce that will complement your wine.
One of the best ways to sample the possibilities at Du Vin Hachisch is to order the "Party Dish" menu. It consists of a succession of five extravagant courses, served family style on elegant long platters (exceedingly reasonable at Y5000 per head, for groups of four or more). Chef Nishimura will work with the finest ingredients of the day, and tailors the menu to your specific preferences and wine selection. Just stand back and let him do his magic. On a recent visit, he prepared four or five different, exquisite mini-dishes on each platter. It was an odyssey of flavors, and a culinary performance to swoon for. Alternatively, a three course option is available for Y4800, or for those wishing to splurge, a special, seven course degustation menu is Y9000.
Open 6 PM-2 AM (last order 1:00 AM)
Hotei's Best B&B and Small Inn Picks in California
Like many wine lovers, we often plan our travels based on proximity to wine regions and around the temples of great food and wine. But the manner in which one travels is an intensely personal matter. What exactly do you require to feel content? Surviving a trip with a friend or lover can be the ultimate litmus test of a relationship. So we can't predict whether the places we've listed below will inspire the same delight in others as they have in us.
When we choose an inn, privacy and peacefulness are paramount, and we're not interested in hotel rooms that look the same in Bangkok as they do in New York. We search for character, and for a thoughtful care to detail that reveals a human, rather than corporate, presence. The price range and style of accommodations varies from rustic to wildly extravagant, depending upon our mood and the location. If there is not a great in-house restaurant and wine cellar, be assured that there are, almost always, fine nearby options.
Many Californian inns require a two-night minimum on weekends, and are known as getaways for adults, discouraging guests from coming with small children. None of the places below have televisions in the rooms, and many do not have in-room telephones. We like it that way, but if you can't leave your modem behind, please call ahead and ensure that you won't be stymied by the lack of a phone jack.
Finally, rest assured that if your favorite place doesn't appear here, it is probably because we have yet to try it ourselves. Send us your own reviews, and we'll post them in the list.
Ventana Inn Tel: 408-667-2331 or 408-624-4812
Timber cottages with decks set gracefully into a thickly wooded landscape at Big Sur, 28 miles south of Carmel. the inn's brochure states, "One of the attractions is that there is little to do except relax, read by the fire, sit by the pool or in the hot tubs, indulge in our wonderful spa treatments, sleep, and eat." Extremely private, with breakfast delivered to your door if requested. Buildings are connected by small trails, traversed only by the occasional golfcart used to deliver baggage and breakfast. Great spa facilities and treatments; try taking a late-night dip under the stars in the spacious, beautiful hot tub or pool. Gym with treadmill. Whalewatching, hiking in vicinity (Point Lobos State Reserve for sea lion watching is 24 miles away). In-house restaurant with large terrace for outdoor dining in warm weather. Cuisine is much touted; we found it fine, but unremarkable.
Blackthorne Inn Box 712 266 Vallejo Avenue Inverness, CA 94937 Tel: 415-663-8621.
Adjacent to Point Reyes National Seashore and Tomales Bay. In a wooded canyon near the village of Inverness, this inn has been described as a "carpenter's fantasy" by Sunset magazine. It is essentially a treehouse for adults, a great, sprawling redwood and cedar construction with a tower, stained glass windows, gables, porches, decks, and balconies. We recommend the "Eagle's Nest" room, perched at the top of the inn in its octagonal tower. A ladder on the side allows you to climb onto the roof for a picnic. Jacuzzi is nearby on an open-air deck, shaded by great old trees. Furnishings are basic; its the setting and weirdly wonderful design that make the place. Buffetstyle breakfast served on the deck or in a common room.
Whale Watch Inn 35100 Highway 1 Gualala, CA 95445 Tel: 707-884-3667
A three hour, magnificent drive north of San Francisco along the coastal route of Highway 1. Every room offers spectacular views at this ultra-private hideaway. The inn hugs the cliffs above the ocean, with a private staircase descending to the beach so one can take a preprandial stroll in the surf. Large, airy and high-ceilinged rooms with down comforters, fireplaces, skylights, oversized tubs and whirlpool baths. Breakfast is quietly delivered to your room in a hamper. One of our favorite places in Northern California. No restaurant onsite; we've always found it hard to locate a really good restaurant in the vicinity, and recommend taking a luxurious picnic with a bottle of Champagne (icemakers in rooms).
Camellia Inn 211 North Street Healdsburg, CA 95448 Tel: 707-433-8182 Fax: 707-433-8130 Email: info@camelliainn.com Website: www.camelliainn.com
Situated two blocks from Healdsburg's lovely little plaza (with its good restaurants, Oakville Grocery, cafés, and fun boutiques), this inn is an 1869 Victorian, with double parlors and marble fireplaces. Large rooms with antiques, hardwood floors, and oriental rugs. Whirlpool tubs for two and gas fireplaces in some rooms. Swimming pool. Convenient to the wineries of Sonoma's Russian River area. Breakfast is served buffet-style, and guests sit together around a large antique table in the dining room. Not a "hideaway" inn, but rather, more B&B style, with socializing over canapes and breakfast (optional of course). Owned and operated by Ray, Del, and Lucy Lewand.
The Campbell Ranch Inn [Closed Jan'00] 1475 Canyon Road Geyserville, CA 95441
Call it nepotism. How could we leave Bill's family home off this list? Overlooking literally hundreds of acres of vineyards, the Campbell Ranch Inn is a contemporary ranch-style house in the heart of the Dry Creek area of Sonoma, prime Zinfandel Country. This small, very homey inn (5 guest rooms) offers tennis courts, a pool, jacuzzi under the stars, and spacious grounds. We highly recommend the cottage, a detached, private unit with its own deck, jacuzzi, double tub, and CD stereo, facing a panorama of vines. Rooms in the house provide less privacy, but guests tend to enjoy chatting over Mary Jane's sumptuous desserts, served every evening around the fireplace. Her breakfasts are elaborate, with a full menu of dishes, including homemade baked goods. This was one of the first B&Bs established in Sonoma, and Mary Jane and Jerry are truly experts on the local restaurants and wineries. They will also make recommendations and provide advice on everything from hot-air ballooning to massage (available at the inn). Great restaurants in nearby Healdsburg. One of our recent favorites is Ravenous.
Heritage House 5200 North Highway One Little River, CA 95456 Tel: 707-937-5885
Guest cottages scattered over 37 acres on cliffs above the Pacific Ocean. The ultimate in privacy. Breathtaking views of the ocean, the sound of surf all night. Every cottage varies in its decor, from elegant antiques to cozy, overstuffed sofas. Most rooms have fireplaces or woodburning stoves, jacuzzis or oversized tubs. Many have decks or spacious balconies. Extensive, beautifully appointed gardens for strolling. Excellent restaurant (at the time of our last visit) and a Wine Spectator Grand Award-winning wine cellar, which has never disappointed us. Recreational activities in the area abound. Binoculars available for whale-watching. Test out the locally-crafted outrigger canoes on the nearby coastal river (highly recommended), or ride horses on the beach. Mendocino is just up the road. This place gets Melanie's vote for No. 1 Choice.
Wilbur Hot Springs Star Route, Williams, CA 95987 Tel: 916-473-2306
A place of pilgrimage for hot springs fans. Wilbur is a unique, turn-of-the-century hotel, that was once a gold rush stage coach stop. Today, the inn is still illuminated only by oil lamps at night, and located 22 miles from the nearest town. No electric lights, no private bathrooms, but a wonderful naturally hot mineral water spring makes for some great, soothing bathing under the stars or with in the utter tranquillity in the early morning. Many kinds of massage offered, from Esalen to shiatsu and Trager. The inn consists 19 pleasant rooms, a private apartment (occupancy for 6), and an 18-bed group room for hikers and fellow explorers, a reading library, and a big Franklin stove. Be forewarned, however, that Wilbur has a definite communal bent to it. This is one of the few hippy havens remaining. You bring our own food (come prepared or face a very long drive to get dinner) and stir up a meal in the large, well-equipped communal kitchen. Then select a table in the dining room, which glows with the soft light of oil lamps, and settle in for a peaceful evening. N.B.: If you're not comfortable with nudity, it's not a wise choice, as we have never seen swimming suits worn around the baths or the pool here, for that matter. Day use of the baths is allowed, but with advance reservation only.
Glenborough Inn 1327 Bath Street Santa Barbara, CA 93101. Tel: 805-966-0589 Email: glenboro@silcom.com Web: www.silcom.com/~glenboro
Accommodations are in a cluster of four quiet Victorian and California Craftsmen cottages (ranging from ca. 1885 to 1929) surrounded by gardens on a tree-lined street. The location is three blocks from the Santa Barbara downtown, and a 14-block walk from the ocean. Most rooms have private entrances, fireplaces, and sitting areas; some feature their own jacuzzi and private decks or gardens. Breakfast is delivered discretely to your door at the requested hour. The wicker hamper contains a hot dish, fresh fruit, muffins or mueseli, and thermoses of juice and coffee. Innkeepers Michael and Steve are gracious and helpful, without ever being intrusive. (Ask Michael for his secret best-Mexican dinner tip, a Julia Childs favorite and unforgettable!) A good place for people who do not like the forced camaraderie around the breakfast table at some B&Bs. Massage available. Rooms from $100-360 (for an entire cottage that sleeps up to 6 persons).
Simpson House Inn 121 East Arrellaga Street Santa Barbara, CA 93101 Tel: 805-963-7067 Email: simpsonhouse@compuserve.com Web: www.simpsonhouseinn.com
Quite simply one of the most beautiful little inns we've ever seen. An historic, Eastlake-style Victorian estate built in 1874, with Landmark status by the Landmarks Commission for its architecture and period setting. Impeccably restored, with elegant, museum-quality furnishings, sumptuous oriental rugs, and details such as authentic Victorian wallpapers. Blessed with a spacious wrap-around porch, where guests can read curled up on a white wicker chaise or nibble the great canapés served with Santa Barbara wines in the late afternoon. Magnificent gardens, shaded by great old oaks. This place is really more a very fine small hotel than a B&B, although it remains family-owned and operated. Massage available. Rooms from $160-360.
Hotei's Best Pick for Tokyo Caterers
Members of the Hotei team all love cooking, but we often must turn to a professional to pull together a winetasting dinner or special event. The following are caterers whom we know to be reliable and talented, with a repertoire that goes well beyond the usual classic, continental dishes. If you have your own favorite names to recommend for the list, please let us know.
Tony Scimonello Formerly of Enotecca Pinchiorri in Florence and Tokyo Italian cuisine, and Australian/international fare. From formal dinners to cocktail receptions. Tel: 03-5684-0605 Mobile: 020-531-0981 Email: tonyscim@gol.com
Betty's Ethnic Kitchen with Betty Ng-Kruemmer and Akiko Mikami Adventuresome, colorful and vibrantly spiced Asian fusion cuisine and creative interpretations of classics. Cooking classes also available. Tel: 03-3708-0898 Mobile: 030-8188062 Email: bettyng@usa.net In Japanese: 3725-2671 Tania Kadokura Recipient of a Grand Diploma from the Cordon Bleu in London. Tania is classically trained and has a talent for special occasion desserts. She is a contributor to Betty's Ethnic Kitchen events, and also organizes cooking holidays. Call or fax her at 03-5443-5930.