Trefethen

Eshcol Chardonnay is as lovely as Trefethen’s signature Chardonnay but available at a lower price. But Eshcol is no typical second label. It’s a 100% Napa Valley wine, sourced entirely from Trefethen’s Main Ranch - the same vineyards that produce the grand vin. The difference between Eshcol and Trefethen Estate Chardonnay is that it is produced from younger vineyard blocks, fermented in stainless steel (as opposed to barrels), and aged in neutral rather than new oak barrels. This is a fresh, well-balanced wine that emphasizes fresh green apple and citrus flavors with only a minimum of toasty, vanilla oak notes. 

Acclaimed for decades as among the best in California, Trefethen’s dry Rieslings evoke the structured, minerally Rieslings of Austria and win awards for being so fresh, fruity, tangy, and pleasurable. Sadly, it comes from one of the last Riesling vineyards in the Napa Valley. But is there a more food-friendly wine? One that’s able to complement Japanese, South, and Southeast Asian cuisine, as well as all manner of salads, seafood, chicken, pork, vegetarian, raw, grilled, or creamy dishes? Indeed, you would be surprised to see how it holds up to steak! Whether with a meal or as an energizing aperitif, this bright, zingy, and mouthwatering wine will cleanse the palate and liven the spirits. 

Trefethen Chardonnay has been a favorite of critics and consumers alike ever since winning “Best Chardonnay in the World” at the Gault Millau World Wine Olympics in France in 1979. Today, the well-drained soils and temperate climate of the Main Ranch in Oak Knoll continue to produce excellent fruit, while techniques such as barrel fermentation and low use of new oak produce a crisp and refreshing expression of Chardonnay. If you prefer Chardonnay with more peach, melon, and bright citrus instead of tropical and buttery notes, Trefethen is for you! Excellent balance of body and acidity (as well as moderate ABV of just 13.1%) make this Chardonnay an ideal food wine. The winery recommends recipes with almonds. 

Eshcol (pronounced “esh-kol”) is a juicy Bordeaux blend that’s ready on release and easy to enjoy anytime a tasty red is desired. Sourced from the younger blocks on the Trefethen’s Main Ranch, Eshcol was the original name of the estate, way back in the 1800s when it helped establish the Napa Valley’s reputation for fine wine. The label is mandala-like in its complexity; a long stare will gradually reveal hidden items the Trefethens regard as key to sustainable viticulture and winemaking - butterflies, bats, bees, and barn owls among them. The blend changes somewhat each year. In 2021, it consists of 51% Cabernet Sauvignon, 23% Malbec, 12% Merlot, 12% Petit Verdot, and 2% Cabernet Franc. Eshcol is smooth and easy on the palate, with plenty of bright cherry and blackberry notes, hints of spice, and modest tannins. 

Even though Cabernet Franc features in Cheval Blanc, the Premier Grand Cru Classé from St. Emilion, most people know it as one of the components of the Bordeaux blend - if they know it at all. Outside of the Loire region of France, it is rarely bottled as a varietal wine. However, this early-ripener thrives in the cool climate of the Oak Knoll District. Because their Cab Franc produces a wine with exceptional structure, delicious red fruit, and enticing earthiness, Trefethen believes it deserves top billing. If you are looking for an elegant and versatile red with somewhat lower alcohol (13.5%) than the typical Napa Cab, then give this a try. For food, think dry cheeses, lean or cured meats, and earthy veggies like squash, mushrooms, and onions. 

In the late 1960s, Trefethen was among the first wineries in the Napa Valley to take a chance with Merlot, which was virtually unknown in California at that time. It turned out that this Bordeaux variety would thrive in Oak Knoll’s alluvial soils, moderate climate, and long growing season. Today, after more than 50 years, Trefethen Merlot is known for its poise, elegance, and complexity. 2021 followed 2020 as another year of little rain. But cooler temperatures throughout the summer allowed the fruit to ripen slowly. Made with 5% Malbec, this full-bodied Merlot entices with rich aromas of plum, red cherry, and ripe raspberry. Layers of black cherry, boysenberry and herbal notes interplay with silky tannins and bright acidity. Pair it with lean game meats like rabbit or quail, or dishes featuring cooked tomatoes to enhance its depth and spiced character.

The 2020 Dragon’s Tooth is an intense blend of 53% Malbec 34% Cabernet Sauvignon 8% Merlot 5% Petit Verdot, sourced entirely from the winery’s estate in the Oak Knoll District. Like many Napa wineries, Trefethen has long added a dash of Malbec to their Bordeaux-inspired reds. But after noticing how fine their barrels of Malbec tasted year after year, they decided to showcase the variety in more of a leading role. The blend is named “Dragon’s Tooth” because of the obsidian shards, black volcanic glass, that lie scattered like dragons' teeth amongst the rows of Malbec vines. About the 2020, Jeb Dunnuck noted, “It has more blue fruits, some leafy herb, graphite, and mineral notes, medium body, good overall freshness and purity, and a lengthy finish. It displays the vibrant, pure, fresher style of the vintage while staying concentrated and balanced.”

In the Napa Valley, Cabernet is King. Nevertheless, variations in microclimate, topography, and soils around the valley produce distinct expressions of this noble grape. The Oak Knoll AVA features cooler summers than “upvalley” because the fog can linger into late morning. It might almost be too cool for Cabernet but for the gravelly soils that keep the grapes warm at night. These conditions endow Trefethen Cab with elegance – lovely dark berry fruit, spice and savory notes, firm tannins, acidity, and structure. Lower alcohol than many a Napa Cab makes it especially meal-friendly. The 2021 is a blend of 89% Cabernet Sauvignon, 6% Malbec, 6% Petit Verdot, and 2% Merlot. The winery notes the wine is “bright on the palate; concentrated cherry flavors are layered with softer notes of vanilla and forest floor. This wine pairs well with fatty dishes, which will highlight its fine-grained tannins and herbal notes.” They recommend roasted dishes and grilled or braised red meats.

A rich, structured, and elegant wine with power, balance, and beauty, HaLo – Trefethen’s flagship – is named for the family’s third generation, Hailey and Loren. This estate Cabernet Sauvignon is produced entirely from the estate’s Hillspring Vineyard, where Cabernet vines grow on gentle slopes, rocky soils, and slightly warmer conditions than those at the winery at Oak Knoll. Deep, rich, complex, and multi-layered, the wine is known for earthy flavors and aromas that hint at the oak forest surrounding the vineyard. About 2018 HaLo, the winery writes, “Our most rare and beloved Cabernet Sauvignon is smooth and fresh. Aromas of ripe raspberry with notes of pepper, bay leaf, and a touch of sasparilla. On the palate, this is a dark, dense wine, with layers of plum and raspberry, and notes of baking spices and tobacco. The finish is sustained and powerful.” The Connoisseur’s Guide to California Wine calls 2018 HaLo “an altogether delicious, show-stopping glassful even now despite being structured to age for a very long time, but those succumbing to its early charms would be wise to hide a bottle or two away lest they miss the added pleasures that only time can bring. The structure and tannins suggest that HaLo is a wine to put down for future celebrations, so be sure to decant when drinking young. Beef and lamb dishes would go well with HaLo, especially when enhanced with thyme and mushrooms.