Trefethen

Acclaimed for decades as among the best in California, Trefethen’s dry Rieslings evoke the structured, minerally Rieslings of Austria and win awards for being so fresh, fruity, tangy, and pleasurable. Sadly, it comes from one of the last Riesling vineyards in the Napa Valley. But is there a more food-friendly wine? One that’s able to complement Japanese, South, and Southeast Asian cuisine, as well as all manner of salads, seafood, chicken, pork, vegetarian, raw, grilled, or creamy dishes? Indeed, you would be surprised to see how it holds up to steak! Whether with a meal or as an energizing aperitif, this bright, zingy, and mouthwatering wine will cleanse the palate and liven the spirits. 

“Defined in the vineyard; refined in the cellar” is an apt description of the Trefethen style. The vineyard, planted in the cool climate and well-drained soils of the Oak Knoll AVA, is key to making a bright and delicate Chardonnay. But the winery’s preference for using barrel fermentation (for a softer, creamier structure) while strictly limiting new oak and malolactic fermentation produces a pure expression of Chardonnay fruit with roundness as well as a touch of vanilla on the palate. If you prefer Chardonnay with more apple, pear and bright citrus instead of pineapple and buttery notes, Trefethen is for you! Excellent balance of body and acidity (as well as moderate ABV of just 13.2%) make this Chardonnay an ideal food wine. The winery recommends recipes with almonds, hazelnuts, tarragon, lime zest and lemon thyme. Serve with seafood or lighter meats.

Eshcol (pronounced “esh-kol”) is a juicy Bordeaux blend that’s easy to enjoy casually without fretting over the occasion or the wine’s level of maturity. Sourced from the younger blocks on the Trefethen’s Main Ranch, Eshcol was the original name of the estate, way back in the 1800s when it helped establish the Napa Valley’s reputation for fine wine. The label is mandala-like in its complexity; a long stare will gradually reveal hidden items the Trefethens regard as key to sustainable viticulture and winemaking - butterflies, bats, bees, and barn owls among them. The blend changes somewhat each year. In 2019, it consists of 50% Cabernet Sauvignon, 44% Merlot, 3% Petit Verdot, 2% Malbec, and 1% Cabernet Franc. Eshcol is smooth and easy on the palate, with plenty of bright cherry and blackberry notes, hints of spice, and modest tannins. 

Merlot was virtually unknown in Northern California in the 1960s when the Trefethens planted their vineyards. It turned out that Oak Knoll suited the early-ripening Merlot perfectly. Cooler summer nights and afternoons, alluvial soils, and a long growing season endow Merlot with bright acidity, structure and character. With excellent terroir as well as 50+ years of experience, the Trefethens make a Merlot that’s poised and elegant, offering complex flavors while remaining restrained and food-friendly. According to the winery, the 2017 vintage started warm but ended cool; crop yields were down but the wine is a classic. With 5% Cabernet Franc, this is a well-balanced wine that delights with silky red fruit, dark earthy notes, floral perfume and velvet tannins.  An exceptional wine for the table – try it with duck, grilled chicken, tomato-based pastas or even black olive and mushroom pizza. 

Trefethen's estate at Oak Knoll is an ideal terroir for Merlot due to its moderate climate, alluvial soils, cooler nights, and long growing season. With over 50 years of experience, the Trefethens produce a poised and elegant Merlot that is layered and complex. The 2019 growing season featured a wet winter followed by a challenging growing season that alternated between warmer and cooler days. But the grapes were harvested in mid-October after a warm and sunny September. Made with 11% Cabernet Sauvignon and 5% Malbec, this Merlot delights with a nose of ripe raspberry, cherry, and plum as well as flavors of black cherry, boysenberry, and a long, juicy finish. It pairs well with Italian cuisine and savory dishes with roasted mushrooms. Decanter scored it 90 points, noting its charming fruit, vanilla, toast, and cocoa with refreshing acidity.

Cabernet Franc is one of Trefethen’s special “small-lot” bottlings. As a grape that ripens early, Cabernet Franc does best in cooler climates, such as the Loire Valley…. or Oak Knoll in Trefethen’s corner of the Napa Valley. With this wine’s lively red fruit and enticing earthiness, it’s clear that Trefethen grows some fantastic Cab Franc that deserves to be bottled as a varietal wine. If you are looking for a versatile red with somewhat lower alcohol (13.8%) than the typical Napa Cab, then give this a try. For food, think hardy or rustic fare like roasted pork, beef burgers, meatballs in tomato sauce, grilled lamb, or roasted duck. Earthy extras like mushrooms of all sorts will bring out the spice notes in this delicious wine.

Inky dark purple - almost black - in color but loaded with fruit and spice, Dragon’s Tooth is an expressive blend of Malbec, Petit Verdot, and Cabernet Sauvignon. While Malbec dominates wine production in Argentina, it also happens to be of the five approved varieties in Bordeaux. Like many Napa wineries, Trefethen has long added Malbec to their Bordeaux-inspired reds. A few years ago, however, they realized that Malbec has lovely qualities in it’s own right, such as intense aromatics and flavors as well as acidity and texture. The named it “Dragon’s Tooth” because of the obsidian shards, black volcanic glass, that lie scattered like dragons' teeth amongst the rows of Malbec vines. The summer of 2018 was on the cool side; hence, the grapes developed plenty of complex flavors before being harvested in October. In 2018, the blend consists of 49% Malbec, 27% Petit Verdot, and 24% Cabernet Sauvignon.  The winery suggests pairing this wine with earthy and rich dishes such as mushroom pasta. 

The elegance of Trefethen’s Estate Cabs is an expression of the terroir at Oak Knoll, where summers are distinctly cooler than “up valley.” On the other hand, the gravelly soils in this section of vineyard radiate warmth throughout the nights, producing a wine with lovely dark berry fruit, spice and savory notes, firm tannins, acidity, and structure. Lower alcohol than your typical Napa Cab makes this wine less about luxury than accompanying a fine meal shared by family and friends. The 2019 is a blend of 89% Cabernet Sauvignon, 5% Petit Verdot, 4% Malbec, 2% and Merlot. Wine Enthusiast described it as “Varietally correct and classic in style… a dry, elegant and demure red, brimming in well-integrated notes of currant, clove, and dusty dark chocolate. Blueberry compote adds a touch of richness to an otherwise balanced affair.” Serve with beef - especially dishes made with mushrooms, fresh thyme, or black pepper.

A rich, structured, and elegant wine with power, balance, and beauty, HaLo – Trefethen’s flagship – is named for the family’s third generation, Hailey and Loren. This estate Cabernet Sauvignon is produced entirely from the estate’s Hillspring Vineyard, where Cabernet vines grow on gentle slopes, rocky soils, and slightly warmer conditions than those at the winery at Oak Knoll. Deep, rich, complex, and multi-layered, the wine is known for earthy flavors and aromas that hint at the oak forest surrounding the vineyard. About 2018 HaLo, the winery writes, “Our most rare and beloved Cabernet Sauvignon is smooth and fresh. Aromas of ripe raspberry with notes of pepper, bay leaf, and a touch of sasparilla. On the palate, this is a dark, dense wine, with layers of plum and raspberry, and notes of baking spices and tobacco. The finish is sustained and powerful.” The Connoisseur’s Guide to California Wine calls 2018 HaLo “an altogether delicious, show-stopping glassful even now despite being structured to age for a very long time, but those succumbing to its early charms would be wise to hide a bottle or two away lest they miss the added pleasures that only time can bring. The structure and tannins suggest that HaLo is a wine to put down for future celebrations, so be sure to decant when drinking young. Beef and lamb dishes would go well with HaLo, especially when enhanced with thyme and mushrooms.