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#6 Wine Spectator Top 100 of 2023!
The 2019 Dunn Howell Mountain is making critics swoon! Vinous (98): “Outrageously beautiful… dazzles right out of the gate.” Jeb Dunnuck (98): “Incredible aromatics of pure créme de cassis, scorched earth, graphite, bouquet garni, and hints of plum, it hits the palate with full-bodied richness carrying ultra-fine tannins, a flawless sense of balance and purity, and incredible length.” On the other hand, it’s worth knowing that the 2019 Howell Mountain is less of a tannic monster than in years past. While a few years of cellaring is highly recommended, you no longer need to consider it a wine best left to a future generation.
A family-owned winery located on Howell Mountain, Dunn Vineyards may be Napa Valley’s best analogy to a Bordeaux Grand Cru but operated by a man with all the pretense of a humble, countryside vigneron. Like great Bordeaux, the wines are consistent in quality; deep with dark fruit and earthy flavors; chewably tannic, moderately alcoholic and refreshingly acidic – that is to say elegant, structured and honest. They are aged for up to 30 months, primarily in new French oak, and they reward patient cellaring. Dunn offers just two bottlings: Howell Mountain Cabernet Sauvignon (the “grand vin” – austere when young but built to last) and Napa Valley Cabernet Sauvignon (the “second label” – more approachable with the inclusion of around 15% valley fruit). Unlike many Napa wineries, there’s no edifice grander than a cave bored deep into the mountain, no tasting room, and marketing or sales staff. Almost all the work is carried out by Dunn, his wife, Lori, and his son and daughter. Sadly, there isn’t very much wine, for Dunn Vineyards produces less than 5,000 cases per year.
In 1978, when Randy purchased five acres of abandoned old vines on Howell Mountain, it may have looked like new territory for Napa Valley viticulture. After all, most of the local community belonged to the non-drinking Seventh-Day Adventist Church. But in the 1890s, Howell Mountain had more vineyard in the than even today, and a “La Jota Red” made by the Liparita Winery won the gold medal at the Paris Exposition of 1899. At the core of Dunn’s Cabernets is the unique terroir of the Howell Mountain. The vineyards in this AVA begin just above the fog line at 1400 feet (400 meters), and average temperatures are cooler (because of the high elevation and afternoon winds) than the valley below. On the other hand, summer mornings are sunny and evenings pleasantly warm. The soils, consisting of compressed, white volcanic ash as well as volcanic loam and red clay, retain little water. The grapes are “stressed” into producing tight clusters of berries with thick skins that yield rich tannins. Full bodied red wines, principally Cabernet and Merlot, are the main produce of Howell Mountain vineyards. Some vintners work with Zinfandel and Petite Sirah, and a small number try their hand at Chardonnay and Viognier. Randy Dunn may appreciate the effort to diversify, but he sticks with what he knows best: Cabernet Sauvignon.
| Country | USA |
| Region | California |
| Appellation(s) | Napa Valley |
| Sub-Ava | Howell Mountain |
| Winery | Dunn |
| Vintage | 2019 |
| Color | Red |
| Varietal(s) | Cabernet Sauvignon |
| Closure | Cork |
| Volume | 750ml |
| Bottle Size | 8.0 x 31.0 |
| Case Size | 33.5 x 25.5 x 32.0 |
| Alcohol | 13.9% |
| Product Code | DN19HM |
| UPC | NONE |
98 points – Vinous; 98 points – Jeb Dunnuck; 95 points – Wine Spectator.
On the nose, notes of blackberry and boysenberries, along with menthol, licorice, and spice swirl from of the glass. The palate is full-bodied, with tannins offering a solid grip, but it is well-balanced and elegant, revealing layers of dark fruit, crème de cassis, and black licorice.
The wine was fermented in stainless steel and aged for 32 months in 100% new French oak barrels.