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Grenache was once one of the more widely-planted red grapes in California, popular for the same reasons it dominates the landscape across Spain and Southern France: high yields, an ability to withstand dry conditions, and its versatility. It produces delicious wine whether vinified singly, in blends, or as a dry and refreshing rosé. Though plantings have diminished in California of late, blocks of old Grenache vines are there to discover and revive, such as the Rose Ranch, which is located at the base of the extinct Sugarloaf volcano in the Kenwood area of the Sonoma Valley AVA. Now certified biodynamic, the block of old vine Grenache is planted in well-drained lava and gravel soils. Handpicked grapes are pressed directly to stainless steel tanks, fermented on native yeasts, and then aged in neutral barrels. Perfect for sipping at the end of a spring or summer day, this rosé is bright and full of energy with aromas and flavors of bright strawberry, orange blossom, grapefruit, and crushed rock.
Located in Healdsburg, Sonoma County, Leo Steen Wines is a 1,000 case winery owned by Leo Steen Hansen, a Danish-born winemaker who is passionate about single vineyard, dry Chenin Blanc – though he does produce a few barrels of Syrah, Grenache and Chardonnay as well.
Founded in 2004, Leo Steen Wines is a point on Leo Hansen’s journey in food and wine that began in the kitchen of his father’s restaurant in Denmark, led him to explore the wine regions of Europe, and saw him become a sommelier, wine director and, finally, a maker of California wine. From the start, Hansen has eschewed making the expected Pinot Noir, Chardonnay or Cab. Instead, he has been a key player in the nascent comeback of California Chenin Blanc, the elegant and versatile grape of the Loire Valley that once was more popular than Chardonnay in Napa and Sonoma but is now grown on less than 50 acres across the two counties.
Steen is the term used in South Africa for wines made of Chenin Blanc. It also happens to be Leo Hansen’s middle name. While charmed by the coincidence, his interest in the grape began while working as a sommelier in Healdsburg. He wished he could offer a food-friendly California wine that wouldn’t cost much but offered structure, elegance and acidity. As luck would have it, right around the time he began making his own wines, he was offered fruit from one of Sonoma County’s last Chenin Blanc vineyards, whose owners were ready to rip out the last remaining acres and plant Chardonnay. While not an overnight success, Hansen has continued to pursue making dry Chenin Blanc from forgotten or overlooked vineyards. In recent years, he’s been joined by a number of like-minded, often younger vintners, and sourcing fruit from good vineyards is getting harder.
Leo Steen Wines continues to make food-friendly wines that are fresh, elegant and affordable. Chenin Blanc is key to the mission, with three vineyard-designated wines: Saini in Dry Creek, Jurassic in Santa Barbara and Peabody in Mendocino. All three vineyards were planted in the early eighties and are dry-farmed, so yields are low. As for winemaking, Leo Hansen works with natural yeasts and limits oak aging and alcohol levels. Syrah, Grenache and Chardonnay round out the portfolio. About vineyards, Leo Hansen has said, “What thrills and inspires me as a winemaker are vineyards that are rich in character, sites that translate into expressive and enthralling wines that give pleasure, but also make you think. Ultimately, making wines that let the vineyards speak is not enough—a vineyard needs to have something worthwhile to say.”
| Country | USA |
| Region | California |
| Appellation(s) | Sonoma Valley |
| Winery | Leo Steen |
| Vintage | 2023 |
| Color | Rose |
| Varietal(s) | Grenache |
| Closure | Screw Cap |
| Volume | 750ml |
| Bottle Size | 8.5 x 29.5 |
| Case Size | 34.5 x 26.0 x 30.5 |
| Alcohol | 13.0% |
| Product Code | LS23ROS |
| UPC | 080720010428 |
| MLF | 100% |
Aromas of bright rhubarb, strawberry, and blood orange are echoed on the palate of red fruit and hints of rose petals and white pepper. The texture is lightly creamy and the finish fresh, lively, and dry.
Grapes were hand-picked and pressed immediately. After fermentation was completed in stainless steel, the wine was racked to neutral oak barrels for five months of aging